Super Neat old Wooden Canoe.Serial number7380 with all parts matching. For a good price and don’t have any idea what model it is. You have the Old Town canoe with serial number 217849 which shipped in May of 1978. We recommend Get Certified Boat History Report. Newer canoes and kayaks often have a sticker placed next to the HIN that gives the vessel’s serial number.It was built between March and June, 1945. I can't tell from the photos, but either it was a red canoe and was later painted black, or somebody scraped off most of the red outer skin, exposing the ABS layers (which would be very bad).The Old Town canoe with serial number 141915 is a 16 foot long, CS Common Sense or middle grade, Otca model with red Western cedar planking, open spruce gunwales, ash decks, ash thwarts, ash seats, and a keel. It will start with XTC and the last two digits are the manufacturing year. Judging by the seats, I would say mid-to-late 1970s or after, which you should be able to check on the serial number molded int the stern on one side, just below the gunwale. The gunwales, decks and trim are rigid vinyl (gunwales have an aluminum angle inside for better strength and stiffness). Third Quarter 2021-2022.It's an Old Town "Penobscot" model and it is made from Royalex (vinyl skin, ABS structural layers and a foam core).
![]() Your serial number is essential to reclaim a lost or stolen canoe, or to. You should record the serial number in the space provided on the last page of this manual for future reference. This one's in awfully rough shape and it will never be beautiful, but the Penobscot is a pretty good design and you should at least be able to make it serviceable with enough work.HOW DO I FIND THE SERIAL NUMBER ON MY CANOE Your canoe’s serial number is stamped on a brass plate located on the right side of the stern, under the gunwale. Just take your time and don't overheat any particular area. You can also "bake-out" dents and creases to some extent on this material by careful use of a heat gun. Last time I checked, Old Town even had spray paint to match their vinyl colors and help hide patches. ![]() Let that harden, sand it smooth and feather out the bulge as much as possible. As soon as they get stiff, you can fill the weave texture with a coat or two of epoxy resin. Then you apply and saturate the fiberglass layers, smoothing them down tight and bubble-free to the hull. You aren't trying to heat the plastic, but the flame treatment does something to the plastic surface which makes the glue stick better. Most people quickly pass the blue part of a propane torch flame over the surface for a couple seconds before glueing an epoxy patch onto a plastic canoe. Rough-up the surface and overlap the break by a few inches. Old Town Canoe S Series Which IsWhen I was 20 I made some money in the rock and roll business and bought part of a chain of backpacking/canoe/kayak/ski/sailboat stores (needed something to do during the day and I was always buying that stuff anyway). There are only those three colors and no others present anywhere in the hull construction (no black).Old Town Royalex construction and cross section:Old Town Crosslink polyethylene construction:If the red skin has been worn off or otherwise removed (I've never seen one worn down that badly and kind of wonder if somebody sanded it off) you would be very wise to paint the outside to get at least some protection from UV for the ABS layers.I didn't build them as such, I just had to assemble them. This boat is not polyethylene.Further verification is the fact that the three layers of the polyethylene Old Town boats are, and always have been, the exterior color, the interior color and the clear-ish poly/foam core. The polyethylene Penobscot series which is currently in the line was not available in 1985. I don't remember off the top of my head when the Discos first showed up, but through at least 1990-1991 The only Discovery (polyethylene) models were the 158 (15'8" Long) and 174 (17'4" long) which had a different profile from the Penobscot and were made so that the hulls nested for cheaper shipping when unassembled (I was an Old Town dealer and spent many an hour assembling Discovery models in the back room of the shop) and the Discovery 169, which was a more rockered, deeper hull made along the lines of their 17'2" "Tripper" Royalex canoe, which had been their best seller for probably at least a decade. We also plan to take a grinder to the crack to open it up then bevel the sides of the crack and then do the fiberglass and resinYou should at least be able to make it serviceable with enough workYep this will be a canoe I wont be afraid to beat upThe core of Old Town's Royalex boats was tan and it pre-dates the Dicovery series of cross-linked polyethylene canoes (their cores are clear-ish uncolored polyethylene foam). You can see a few in my web closet (along with a lot of other junk - sails, sailplans and whatever else I tend to be working on at any given moment).That Krylon (or whatever brand it is) spray paint made to stick to vinyl and plastic might work pretty well on your boat and is certainly worth a shot.Golfer - Tod is probably right, but if you have any doubt about the model or material, you should be able to find out exactly what it is by calling Old Town (the xtc prefix means it is definitely an Old Town) and reading them the hull identification number. The boats that I built myself were mostly wood-strippers or old sailboats that I re-built. It was kind of tedious, but helped keep the cost of the boats down. The catch was that the dealer (me) had to install the gunwales, seats, thwarts and decks. They could then ship four or five boats in the same space on the truck that had previously held only one. When Old Town brought out the Discovery series, they made the bare hulls stack-able. Return receipts in outlook for macIf the cracks do expose the inner layer - just touch them up with some red Krylon.The biggest concern to me would be those lateral creases that appear to be the result of someone putting way too much tension in their tie-downs when roof-topping the boat - or from a partial "wrap" incident on the river. Remember - the outer colored layer (assuming it's royalex) merely protects the structural ABS underneath from UV and abrasion. If those "micro cracks" aren't deep enough to protect the black paint from your sanding, I probably wouldn't worry about them. I would try to keep the costs down as much as possible. It does have that "rented look" about it.Good luck with your project.
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